True boulder style climb with big catches and crimp pullups. I love placing the right heel above the right hand. All very cool
Random Happening #3
Just returned from Bishop, Ca - where I spent a little time trying to repeat my favorite problem of all time. However, at 98 degrees in the middle of the summer.... Lets just say that the slopey block and top out got a little frustrating ;)
Random Happening #2
Fellow Evolv athlete Ronnie Dickson sending V5 - in the rain - with one leg!! If you EVER had any excuses for why you cannot perform or succeed, I suggest you check out this video and be amazed. BTW he sends V8 when it's not raining :/
The Ronnie Dickson Project: Amputee Climbing from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.
Sentinel Traverse V6
Endurance test piece of the Sentinel area with many great moves. Mike is pretty close to finishing the top out - marked as a project in the book. Here's a sneak peak!
The Angler V3
Precise start with a technical heel variation make this a great test piece for its grade. Unique for the area and a must do.
Unnamed V4 Curry
I believe this is a Matt Arnold F.A. Smear the left foot on a small crystal down low and move through the hand adjustments as efficiently as possible. Compress hard on the big move to stay in place. Easy mantel.
Root Canal V7
Classic 'hard' problem of the Curry boulders. Several variations to the last jug - all very crux and tense.
Unnamed Traverse V3
Ahwahnee Boulders Central, just left of 'Silly Roof'. Excellent warm up piece with a challenging V7 extension going further left.
Zorro V4
The classic of the Curry circuit with a dozen or so variations to the final jug including a possible figure four!
Unnamed Arete V1
Camp 4 - Yosemite, Ca. Opposite 'Indian Rocker' and right of 'Blue Suede Shoes'. An elegant and often overlooked problem that's great for warming up and establishing rhythm.
The King V7
Cathedral Boulders. Guest Blogger Tanner Rozier states of his great ascent..
"Crux is getting to the lip and its probably best to scout out your holds on top of the boulder before trying to top out because it is really high and not a solid top out"
"Crux is getting to the lip and its probably best to scout out your holds on top of the boulder before trying to top out because it is really high and not a solid top out"
Unnamed V3 (Shrink Boulder)
Probably the first V3 I ever climbed. A one move wonder with many variations.
King Cobra V8
Haven't been able to post for a while. Been away home making. Anyhow we're back on the wire with this classic from Camp 4 'King Cobra'
Unnamed V5 Traverse
Sentinel Boulders (Problem #18 in STopo). Creative footwork is the name of the game with this problem. Great for teaching oneself to sequence and execute efficiently. Get it wrong once or twice and you'll be pumped out!
Random Happening #1
Alex Honnold sends Moffat Start (v10) second try. During his first attempt he voluntarily came down to grab his chalk bag for the mantel. Essentially a flash.
When you see this level of strength and comfort displayed on the rock, It's impossible to feel there is anything 'crazy' about his bold free-soloing. An inspiring day
When you see this level of strength and comfort displayed on the rock, It's impossible to feel there is anything 'crazy' about his bold free-soloing. An inspiring day
Door Knocker Traverse V3
Good warm up with a fun little starting hold that shakes in its place. Thus the term 'door knocker'. Anyhow, I believe the top-out may go further left. This climb was a more organic ascent that just happened while goofing around at the freshly dried Sentinel boulders.
Moffat Start V10
Mike runs laps on this piece and makes it look easy! To be fair, there is a jump start that is omitted because, believe it or not, this is part of Mikes warm up routine and he prefers to start on stacked pads to save the ungraceful jumpstart. As he would say "do what you like".
Athletes Die Young V5
YSend is stoked to welcome guest blogger and contributor Tanner Rozier. Check out his excellent send of the Le Conte classic 'Athletes Die Young'. His notes are as follows.
"Super fun problem and for the throw to the super juggy crimp make sure your left knee is facing towards the left side of the arete. Also for the top-out theres a hidden crimp about a foot past the lip that makes the really hard top-out considerably easier. Enjoy!"
"Super fun problem and for the throw to the super juggy crimp make sure your left knee is facing towards the left side of the arete. Also for the top-out theres a hidden crimp about a foot past the lip that makes the really hard top-out considerably easier. Enjoy!"
Bachar Cracker V4
You'd be hard pressed to see this climbed any cleaner. Intro David Banebridge - Long time Yosemite resident and crack climbing extraordinaire!
Life On The Rocks V10
A first ascent located on the backside of the Zorro boulder, Curry Village. Waiting for repeat and confirmation. Tentatively rated V10 by Michael Rael Armas
Smile For The Green Dragon V5
I've seen some variations with the start but the heel feels best to me. Find the crimp deep right and lean over slowly. The rest is a breeze!
Unnamed V3 Arete
Arizona Boulder, Camp 4. My 'tall guy' ability to reach the first big jug may make this a bit easier. Body tension and well placed feet will float you up this one.
Cranium Crusher V3
Le Conte boulders. Quite a few ways to get off the ground here but I found the left foot toe-heel cam to be the easiest and most fun. Intermediates work well for shorter climbers, but I suggest skipping them altogether for the taller
Unnamed V2
Le Conte boulders just left of 'Purple Barrel'. Excuse the not topping out - it was snowing and wet up top. Good measure of finger strength. Problem 29 in STopo.
Blue Suede Shoes V5
Beautiful classic slab with a rich history. Anyway you climb it the grade is the same. Have fun with variations and eliminates.
Tap Dance V10
Camp 4 Wine Boulder. Butt scraper with technical heels and tight moves. One of Mikes personal favorites at a great shady location.
Indian Rocker V7
Camp 4 Boulders. I continue to learn a great deal from this climb. Great moves and progression. Climbs very hard for its rating and should not be overlooked!
Unnamed Sit V3
Camp 4 Boulders (East). Problem number 11 in STopo. Nice undercling sit start on the corner of the Kor problem. Chunky feet make this a good approach shoe warm up problem.
The Shrink V3
Camp 4 Boulders. I don't know about you, but I secretly wished someone would stroll by and show me the beta on this one. That never happened, but I did eventually figure it out. Here it is for your sanity.
No Fur V3
Ahwahnee Boulders. This approach is what I like to call the 'tall guy beta'. Jon Gill, the father of modern bouldering and dynamic climbing said "use momentum to overcome resistance".
Sloth Boulder V3
One of my very favorite traverses located near the swan slabs. Find a way to use the momentum of the swing caused when the far heel is released, or find a heel-less beta. Enjoy!
Ament Arete Sit Start V6
Sit start variation to the Ament Arete at Camp 4. The SuperTopo guidebook describes this start as 'contrived'. I prefer the word 'imaginative'.
Torque Spanner V8
The placement of the toe-heel cam is key to progressing right. Figure this out before making full efforts. When lunging for final hold, pull chest in as closely as possible and hang on!
Bear Hug Mantel V4
No real secret to this climb. Big move to a jug - mantel is over right with huge features. Clean beta is to not have the right heel pop off and control the cross over. Maybe next time!
Kor Problem V3
Located at Camp 4. Truly a classic face problem. Key point is to breathe and trust the rather sloped feet. With the right body tension they will stay.
Blonde Ambition V6
Located at the Ahwahnee Boulders. There are heel hook variations on this problem that are probably a lot smoother. Key point with this approach is to keep hips in close when moving right hand off of first big hold onto sloper.
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